Port Vila Vanuatu

We have just visited Vanuatu for the second time. This trip we took our grand children to experience a culture far removed from what they were accustomed to. We arrived in time for Independence Day celebrations. Vanuatu became an independent republic in 1980, prior to this time it was called New Hebrides. The new name, Vanuatu was taken on at that time and broken up it means: vanua to stand or home and tu meaninig together.

Vanuatu is an archipelago consisting of 82 islands and spanning a distance of 1300 kilometers. It has a sub tropical climate where the rainfall averages around 93 inches but can be as high as 160 inches. It is in an area of high volcanic and seismic activity and is often confronted with cyclones and extreme weather, though for the most part it is humid, wet and hot.

The population of around 250000 people largely of Melanesian descent live mainly in rural areas and most are Christian. The people are very happy and contented and live in village settings where they produce many different kinds of fruit and vegetables to supply their own needs and some to trade with other villages. There is an abundance of tropical fruit, root vegetables such as taro and manioc also island cabbage, fish and fruit bat are also eaten.

They cook the food over a fire or in the ground but they do not fry their food. Their homes are built largely of local timber and woven walls with thatch on the roof. Some use concrete as a base and sheets of iron on the roof or walls. They are creative and very clean and tidy people. While their homes might be humble they keep them very tidy and take pride in keeping the surrounding areas of garden areas looking beautiful.

The Nevan people are delightful in their love of life and their desire to interact with the many tourists who visit their island home. Going to church is a must when you visit this amazing place. It is here you will experience true Christian warmth and love. They make you feel so welcomed in the service and at the end they ask you to stand outside the door so that every member of the congregation can greet you. Our 10, 12 and 15 year old grandsons participated in this ritual and I know they were really touched by it. Following this you are offered a simple morning tea and many invitations to share with them in other ways.

They are indeed a very beautiful people, who just ooze love and friendship. We could learn a lot from them in our culture, where people are less likely to reach out to others in an everyday way. Their homes are simple, their food is basic but their hospitality is second to none.

Vanuatu has gained a lot from foreign investment in tourism related development. It has brought a great deal of western influence into the country in the way of infrastructure and improved roads and communication. When we were there 10 years ago very few of the local people had mobile phones. Now, however, almost everyone has a phone and there are Digicel booths everywhere.

The other big change was the number of new buldings and restaurants to meet the demand of an ever increasing tourist trade. Alongside that came much improved roads. There is now a made road right around Efate where before there were only rough tracks except for in Port Vila itself. The journey to Onesua would take up to 2 hours depending on the road condition. Today it is only about 40 minutes.

Some things have not changed though. Among these are the markets and the people who man them. They come in from their villages with the fresh produce they have grown in their gardens and sell it in the market place. Many of them are there day in day out, even sleeping on the floor under their market stalls.

The other thing that hadn't changed is the commuter buses which are on the go incessantly. You never have to wait long if you need a ride anywhere. The Nevans in their dented old vans are keen to earn a some extra income and for a small fee are very happy to take you to your destination. It is by far the cheapest and best way to get around as you get to meet the local people who know the island well. They are friendly and helpful and do not overcharge.

We travelled around with a Nevan friend so we were able to go places most foreigners would not be able to. In doing so we were able t see first hand how the local people lived in their villages away from the city of Vila which is built to service the needs of tourists. We saw the very poor conditions in which they live, no running water, roughly built homes, and very few things to make living in them more comfortable.

We chatted with many of the Nevan people who were employed by foreign owned businesses and asked them about their pay and hours of work. Most were working for around $7-$10 Australian dollars per day and most worked 6 days per week. We also observed that most services cost as much or more than they do here in Australia. We began to wonder how much these dear people were being exploited by foreign investors. The resort we stayed in for instance, cost $1600 plus for the week and it was very basic. The double bed was sunken in the middle, the oven didn't work, the refrigerator was old and shabby and had no door on the freezer and there were very few utensils. However the girls who cleaned our room everyday so beautifully were paid a measly $7:00 per day each.

We also winessed some local Government officials who appeared to be doing very well financially, and when we boarded the plane to return home some of them were travelling first class. We wondered whether there was not some corruption at a higher level within Vanuatu as most Nevan people would never even get the opportunity to fly in an aeroplane but these, we were informed were travelling to a meeting in Sydney with their wives and in first class. .They were obviously well dressed and well financed with iphones and laptops and no lack of money.

Perhaps I should not be so cynical, but when you see how the majority of Nevan people have to live then see this, it raises some questions. ( Some bribery and corruption ?)